Easy Crochet Octopus Pattern - The Crafty Co


 Crochet Octopus Pattern - Quick and easy pattern for all levels.


Amigurumi is very popular in the crochet world, although many people still shy away from it believing it is difficult to master.

It really is very easy, but there is one piece of equipment that is a must when first starting out with this form of crochet. It's only small but essential if you want to overcome the fear - a stitch marker.


As amigurumi is worked in the round, it is easy to lose where you started, so by marking your first stitch each time, you can keep track of your rounds. A round or row counter is also a good idea, but a pen and piece of paper works just as well, so that you can mark off your rounds as you get back to the stitch marker. Then you simply remove it and place it back in the first stitch of the round you are doing. Working continuously means there is no visible transition from one round to the next, making your work neater.

I have written a pattern for a really easy Octopus that would make a great first dip into the world of amigurum. This particular pattern doesn't have any decrease stitches so is super simple with easy to follow pictures.

I personally like to have a close weave on my work, so I use a smaller hook than the label states. I also try and keep a tight tension, so that once the toy has been stuffed, you can't see the white of the stuffing peeping through.

 The green octopus is created using a 3.5mm hook and DK wool. To make the large multi-coloured one, I simply used double strand and a 5.5mm hook.  The pattern is exactly the same for both options.
It is a fab way to use up odd balls of wool and you don't have to worry about tension so it is fab for all levels.




Let's get started.

Here's what you'll need

Wool for the main colour - I used DK wool and it took less than a 100 grams
For the larger muti-coloured Octopus you will need roughly 2 x 100grams and work them together at the same time
Oddments of wool for the eyes
crochet hook
scisssors
large eye wool darning needle
stuffing

and...... most importantly a stitch marker.

The instructions are written in UK terms

Abbreviations 

sts = stitches
ch = chain stitch
dc = UK double crochet
tr = UK treble crochet
sl st = slip stitch

Body - (make 1)

The first round is worked into a magic ring, but if you don't want use this method, work a 4 or 5 chain and join with a slip sitch in the first stitch.  If you decide to do this, you will need to sew the centre closed, once you have worked the first round.

Magic ring and work a chain stitch to secure

I have worked the 1st dc of the round here and inserted a stitch marker so I know where the start of the round is










Round 1 - work 6dc into the magic ring - do not join the rounds as we will be working continuously (6sts)

To start the 2nd round I work into the 1st stitch of round one (the one that had the marker in)


Round 2 - we need to go from 6sts to 12sts in this round so we work 2dc into each of the 6 sts from the 1st round (12sts) Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round one and place it in the first stitch of this 2nd round

Round 2 - we worked 2 sts in each dc so we now have 12sts in the round

Round 3 - you can see that we are increasing 6sts in each round so we need to go from 12sts to 18sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in same st, 1dc) X 6 = (18sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round two and place it in the first stitch of this 3rd round

Round 3 - Sequence for this round is (2dc into same stitch, 1dc) six times (18sts)
 
 Round 4 -  we need to go from 18sts to 24sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in same st, 1dc, 1dc) X 6 = (24sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round three and place it in the first stitch of this 4th round

Round 4 - Sequence for this round is (2dc into same stitch, 1dc, 1dc) six times (24sts)
 
Round 5 -  we need to go from 24sts to 30sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in same st, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) X 6 = (30sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round four and place it in the first stitch of this 5th round

Round 5 - Sequence for this round is (2dc into same stitch, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times (30sts)

You will see in the picture above that from round five, your work is taking the shape of a hexagon.  This is because we are increasing in the same place in each round.  To turn it into the circle we want to create, all we need to do is work the increase in a different place in each round.  In round 6 below, you can see that we do the 2dc (increase stitch) in the same stitch in the middle of the sequence. From now on, we will do that for the even rounds, but increase at the begininng of the sequence in the odd rounds. That way we will keep the piece nice and circular.

Round 6 -  we need to go from 30sts to 36sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(1dc, 1dc, 2dc in same st, 1dc, 1dc) X 6 = (36sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round five and place it in the first stitch of this 6th round

Round 6 - Sequence for this round is (1dc, 1dc, 2dc into same stitch, 1dc, 1dc) six times (36sts)


Round 7 -  we need to go from 36sts to 42sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times

(2dc in same st, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) X 6 = (42sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round six and place it in the first stitch of this 7th round

Round 7 - Sequence for this round is (2dc into same stitch, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times (42sts)

 Round 8 -  we need to go from 42sts to 48sts in this round and to do that we work this sequence 6 times. This is the final increase round

(1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc in same st, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) X 6 = (48sts)

Don't forget to remove your stitch marker from the stitch in round seven and place it in the first stitch of this 8th round.


Round 8 - Sequence for this round is (1dc, 1dc, 1dc, 2dc into same stitch, 1dc, 1dc, 1dc) six times (48sts)


 Rounds 9 to 23 are worked with 1dc in each st and should have 48sts in each round. In total you are working 15 rounds in this section, and don't forget to remove your marker and place it in the first stitch worked in each round.

Keep working with 48sts in each round making sure you keep moving your stitch marker
I worked 15 rows of 48 sts, but you can make the body shorter by reducing the amount of rows

Once you have completed this section close with a sl st and pull the yarn through to secure, making sure you leave enough yarn to sew the base to the this body section.


Base - (Make 1)

Work rounds 1 to 8 as per the body. You will end up with 48 sts in the 8th round which is the same amount as the body. Work a sl st to close the base and pull wool through to secure.  Sew the ends in, this isn't essential, as you can tuck it in when you sew the body to the base.

The base wll have 48sts in the final round, the same amount as the body


 To assemble, stuff the body.  You can make it as soft or firm as you like. Top tip, make sure you put a little more stuffing than you think as the toy will loosen with wear.


I have stuffed a bit more to allow for use

Work through both loops on the stitches of the base and the body

 Lay the base on the body and sew through both loops of the stitches on both parts. As there are the same number of stitches on both parts, they should line up nicely. Once you have sewn the whole round, secure your end and weave in.

This toy was made for my pooch, so I wanted eyes that would be safe for him

Make sure you sew the eyes on securely 


Eyes - (make 2)

Work rounds 1 and 2 as per the body. you will have a total of 12sts. Join with a slip stitch and pull through, leaving a long enough length to be able to sew the eye to the head.

Add a couple of stitches of white wool to put highlights in the eye


Add highlights to the eyes by sewing a couple of strands through the eyes making sure you secure them, weaving in any ends


Sew the eyes to the body, using the long strand that you left and secure the end and weave in

Legs - (Make 8)

These are super easy to make and look really effective as octopus legs.

Make a 43 chain, counts as 40 stitches and 3 extra to make a dummy treble at the beginning.




Work 4 trebles in the 3rd chain from the hook - we will be working 5 trebles in each stitch back along the chain, but only work 4 in this stitch as the 3 stitches we missed counts as the 1st treble here



Continue working back along the chain working 5 trebles in each stitch



Don't worry if your work takes on a mind of it's own and looks all wonky as you can ease it into a spiral once finished


As you can see below, I have twisted the leg back into a spiral


You can make these as long as you want and in whatever stitch you fancy.  If working in dc, you only need to do 3dc's in the same stitch to get the tight spiral effect.  The bigger the type of stitch, the more you will need to work in each stitch to get it tight.



Once you have made eight legs, you are ready to put it together.


This is the bottom of the octopus and I have attached the legs making sure they are all secure.




I hope that you have overcome the fear of Amigurumi, and this is just the start of your adventure.

The Crafty Co loves seeing our designs made so please don't forget to tag us so we can see your creations.

Happy Crocheting and have fun

The Craty Co
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